The not so common view of Namibia, green when usually it’s just dirt
Most of the day was spent on the truck as we needed to get to the paved road and head further North. The road conditions were unknown as the rain had changed the normal dirt roads into mud pits. We had prepared breakfast and lunch the night before so we could eat while on the road. Thankfully, they had feared the worse and conditions were not bad at all. We made it just in time for our activities.
Orotjitombo School
We drove through town and continued West. Our first stop would be at a local school for grades 1-7. John, the principal, greeted us outside and gave us a tour. There were several rectangular buildings inadie a fence that were used as classrooms, the office and 2 dormitories. The school educates more than 300 students with over 100 living on the premises although there is capacity for 75 of each gender in the small buildings.
Kids at the Orotjitombo School
John explaining how the school works
John explained how the school used to be mobile and move with the nomadic tribes as they hunted and gathered, but became a fixed building in 1999. He noted that attendance continues to vary depending on the rain situation each year. He spoke to us about the curriculum as well as the issues with funding. His current problem is he was just told that in 5 days time he would be losing his English teacher to another school and no replacement was offered.
One of resident kids that sleeps at school
Himba Village
John then accompanied us to a nearby Himba village. We entered the property that was fenced off by tree branches and approached the women and children sitting on the ground. There were 3 circular huts and a corral for the goats on the land. The women were topless with animal hides used as skirts. They wore metal anklets that are to protect them from scorpion and snake bites and once married, headpieces made of feathers. Their bodies and hair were covered in red ochre and you could smell their perfumes made from burning specific types of wood. The ochre is a mixture of butter from their livestock and mud from the red rocks found in the region. The purpose of the ochre is for hygiene as well as sun protection. The Himba people never bathe and are born in their huts with the help of an elder. The babies wore a rope with a cloth to cover their private parts and put sticks and bottles in their mouths when not breast feeding. They too were coated in red ochre.
Reiner and John at the Himba village
From there, we moved into the cheif’s hut with his first wife to have a conversation. He was covered in red ochre and wore a piece of fabric as a skirt and sandals. He told us about his farming and herd of 100 cattle. There were several calabashes and baskets on the wall and he explained what each was for. We learned how important respect is to him and how he is proud to share his culture and lifestyle with us.
The Chief of the village
Himba woman
Back at the school
Our activities for the day ended by being serenaded by the school choir when we dropped John back at the school. They lined up in front of the bus with their student conductor and began to sing. They had angelic voices and appeared shy at first. Once they began to dance, smiles spread across their faces. Each of them was extremely talented and the last song even brought tears to the eyes of the audience.
School choir performing for us
School staff watching the performance
The next morning we stopped at the supermarket in town before heading to Etosha. It was a surreal moment to see the Western society of cars and modern ways of life combined with the local tribal people. The Himba people were walking barefoot with their children strapped to their backs or firewood on their heads and the Herrero women were in their typical dresses with their headpiece. The time we spent getting to witness the cultures in their daily lives was an unforgettable one.
Himba woman covered with a blanket for a town visit
Himba woman in town
A group of men walking in town
Overland tour organized by Africa4Us.
Helpful tips:
- Make sure to ask permission and clarify if there will be a cost before taking a picture of the Himba people.
- If you make it to Opuwo, don’t forget to go the extra 150 kms North to see Epupa Falls.
- We highly recommend spending time in the town soaking up the cultural mix.