After our first slow morning since renting the truck, we realized we needed more information before crossing the border. We asked the reception about fees for driving a foreign vehicle across the border as well as any foods that couldn’t be taken with us. Although we still had some Namibian dollars, we were told it would be better to pay in Pula or Rand. We decided to go to the ATM anyway and pull out more cash just in case. They were nice enough to exchange our Namibian dollars to Rand.
The road from Divundu to Mohembo to cross from Namibia to Botswana goes through the Mahango area of the Bwabwata National Park. We’d already decided that we wouldn’t drive into the park as we’d been into the other sections the previous days. As we entered the park, the gate attendant yelled from the deck of the ranger station to ask if we were transit or day visitors. We registered as transit and were told to drive straight, no turn-offs. As we drove, we passed a large herd of impala and a few kudu eating on the side of the road. Then, a few kilometers down the road we saw 3 elephants. It was the perfect send-off after 5 amazing weeks in Namibia.
Upon reaching the Namibian side of the border, we followed the list of tasks. We filled out the departure paper and waited for the immigration officer. He opened our passports and proceeded to stamp us out without looking at our paper or the computer. It was then that we realized that they hadn’t verified Tico’s visa on entry and had actually given him 3 months even though his visa only allowed one. From there, we skipped customs as we didn’t have anything to declare and there was no one at the window and moved on to the police. They asked that we register the information for the car, but as it was registered in Namibia we didn’t need to pay.
We drove a few hundred meters to reach the Botswana side of the border. The drill was similar. We had the necessary paperwork from the car rental agency as well as the visa, but after realizing that they didn’t verify Tico’s information in Namibia I decided to wait to be asked for it. We filled out the paperwork and the woman stamped us through for 30 days without thinking twice. Again, we registered the details of the car and paid for its foreign registration before making our way into the country. Even though we didn’t need the visa and paperwork, I’m glad we had it just in case. We drove past the customs officer, who was on the phone and waved us through. We had arrived in Botswana!
We reached the town of Shakawe fairly quickly and continued on. The town wasn’t large and we wanted to reach Nguma Lagoon by dark. We had been forewarned about the potholes and it was not a joke. It took us 2 hours to go 60 kilometers (37 miles) and that’s when we realized we didn’t have any local money (Pula) or a phone to reach anyone. We stopped in Sepopa only to realize what we were afraid of. The closest ATM was back in Shakawe or go another 70 kms (43 miles) until Gumare. We decided to turn around.
Having learned a little about the road, we made better time going back. We walked up to the ATM only to see it displaying a message that it was out of order. A man also wishing that there was money said there were no other ATMs in town and we’d have to wait until the bank opened the next day. We asked where we could exchange money and he told us to go to the supermarket. Upon walking in, we verified this and made sure they accepted credit cards. We needed to stock up on supplies as we didn’t cross with much due to food regulations. We left with a truck full of food and a small amount of Pula and set out to find a place to pitch our tent for the night.
Just outside of town, we turned towards Drotsky’s camping. We knew we wouldn’t make it to Nguma Lagoon and we needed to figure out where we were headed the next day. After speaking with the owner and staff, we had a plan for the next couple days and would work out the rest in Maun.
We didn’t make it to our campsite until it was already dark. The road weaved through the canopied trees towards the edge of the river until we reached our site. There was firewood waiting for us along with a swarm of mosquitos like we’d never seen before. Thankfully, we had leftovers and we ate them inside the truck as we would have eaten several if they didn’t eat us alive first.
The next morning after breakfast we set off to find cash and start exploring the country. We had an image in our minds as to what was to come and now we’d see how the reality matched up. The next few weeks we’d have the 4×4 truck to get us in as many national parks as time would allow.
Helpful tips:
- Be prepared for potholes, even on tarred roads.
- It costs 140 Pula (can be paid in USD or Rand) to take a foreign registered car into Botswana.
- Looking back, we recommend providing the visa paperwork regardless of being asked.