Hwange National Park

After hours of packing the car and getting the necessary supplies, we set off towards Hwange National Park.  It felt good to be heading back into the bush after a week in town.  Both nights we would stay on viewing platforms, or hideouts, that were placed in front of waterholes.

Packing the truck for the 2 nights

On our way to the park, we passed a few police road blocks.  We’d decided to try to avoid getting a rental car as we’d heard so much about the police.  As they don’t get paid well, they are notorious for stopping cars to give them a fine for anything they can.  Paul had his reflective triangles placed in the window and the rest of his emergency gear within reach.  After passing a couple blocks without being stopped, Paul jinxed us by saying we were lucky.  We reached the third only to be stopped and asked to produce the fire extinguisher.  Tico was driving, but Paul did most of the talking.  He fought as much as he could, but as his extinguisher’s gauge didn’t show green so he was fined $10 US.  We asked about the receipt as it looked official and he said it was a fake booklet as he’d asked for the official receipt and was told they no longer use it.  Regardless, we left it in the glovebox for the trip back in case we got stopped again.

Paul getting a classic road block ticket

We entered the park and after paying for our stay, we headed to the Makwa platform.  We were greeted by giraffes, zebra, wildebeest and impala.  Normally, we have to leave the platforms at sunset so we were excited to get to stay and see what happens.  Paul barbecued our dinner on the roof of the toilet as the full moon rose in the horizon.

Young giraffe running away from us

Looking for animals from our camping spot

Setting up our beds for the night

Paul preparing dinner

We slept on mats and sleeping bags on the platform with the stairs and gate being the only thing between us and the animals.  There was a baboon troop that made noise throughout the night as well as some Egyptian geese that flapped in and out of the water.  A little before 1 in the morning, I woke up to a different noise in the water.  There were 10 elephants at the waterhole and as we stood watching 7 more came to join them.  They raised their trucks to smell as they came in and the last group hurried past.

The sunset view from our platform

The next morning we packed everything up and started our game drive.  We made a big loop South and passed pans and waterholes along the way.  There were elephants and a few giraffes, but that was all we saw.  We stopped at the Jambili picnic site for lunch before continuing on.  Our last stop before reaching our platform for the night was at the Nyamandhlovu pan.  We watched the hippos and crocodiles as well as several birds.  There was a moment that we thought the crocodile exiting the water was going to attack a crowned crane.  The crane danced in front of him, but the croc could have cared less.  He just wanted a sunny spot, which happened to be where the birds were.

We arrived to the Guvalala platform to find 13 giraffes drinking at the waterhole.  There was an ostrich, wildebeest and zebras with them as well.  They slowly started splitting up and going their own ways, but 2 young giraffes stayed behind and practiced fighting until sunset.  Once everyone that came for game viewing left the platform, we set up camp and started to make dinner.  Ironically, there was water being pumped into the waterhole, but none in the toilets.

Herds of giraffes in front of our platform

Our platform-campsite in front of the waterhole

Sunset at Hwange

After dinner while roasting marshmallows, there was movement behind us.  With the help of a spotlight, we found 4 hyenas walking past on their way to hunt.  They crossed the field in front of us and we could see shadows running in the moonlight, but soon lost them in the darkness.  As we scanned the perimeter, there was a large herd of elephants that were making their way to the water.  We watched as their shadows lined up perfectly with the water’s edge as they drank.

Eating dinner on the platform

Around 1:30 am, I heard the noise of water again and got up to see what it was.  There was a herd of impala that were being scared away by 2 hyenas and a herd of 40 Cape buffalo coming to the water to drink.  Later, Paul woke us up so we could listen to a lion.  It sounded like it was getting closer, but there was nothing to be seen at the waterhole.

Our last day in Hwange was spent enjoying the view from our platform for breakfast before heading out.  A group from the Painted Dog Conservation showed up as we were packing up on their search for wild dogs.  They had collared some dogs and were trying to catch a signal.  The animals are one of the most endangered in Africa so they are trying their best to increase their population in the wild.

The tracking team of the Painted Dog Conservation program

While we didn’t see that much wildlife during the day, having the chance to sleep on the platforms was incredible. It let us watch the animals in the middle of the night by the light of the moon and left us wanting to do it again. Each of the parks we’ve visited so far has been different in one way or another and our sleeping arrangements definitely made this one special.

Helpful tips:

• Many will tell you that you don’t need a reservation to sleep on the platforms, but you do.  Be persistent.
• Several parks, including Kruger, allow you to sleep in hideouts/platforms and we highly recommend trying it.
• Entrance fees into Hwange are quite expensive as prices are in USD.