We parted ways with the Mountain Club group after breakfast with the exception of those driving us to Hauna. They dropped us off along the main road in Hauna so we could get supplies before making it back to base camp. We immediately saw the guy that helped us find the hotel a couple days before and chatted to him for a bit. Then, we walked around the market to see what we could find to cook.
Heading back to camp with groceries
As several people had left us food, we didn’t need to get that many things. I needed some greens so we picked up 2 bushels of kale before going to the store. We got a few canned goods, including Texan corned meat, and fresh beef for dinner that night. Before leaving camp that morning, we had asked how to get back so we knew which combi to take. Although it took some searching, we found the right one. It took a different route than we were used to so we doubted it at first, but everyone reassured us we were on the right one. So loaded with more people than we thought possible and grains galore, the van took us back to the river.
Sorting the food given to us by the Mountain Club
Pungwe B to the Nyamuzi Confluence
Just as we had agreed the day before, Walter arrived at 7 am to start the hike. He would be our guide for the next 2 days and while he spoke very little English, he knew the area much better than us. It was still cloudy, but we had hopes of amazing views once we made it higher in the mountains.
The start of the 1st day of hiking
One of the many creeks with fresh water
We followed the road up from the power station and continued through the village into the Nyanga National Park for an hour and a half. Then, we found a foot path that continued up to the top of the mountain. Walter walked at a fast pace as he was used to the ups and downs, but he waited as we took in the scenery. Not long after, we reached and followed the Turaco Trail. This trail was our original plan before meeting Jan as we could rent tents and get maps from the owners. The biggest different is that Jan wouldn’t charge us.
Mist covering the top of the mountain
Once we reached the top of the mountain, we looked out at the view, but there was a dense fog covering most of the surroundings. From there, we headed down into a valley to go up another mountain that was even taller. We worked our way through a rainforest and found a bunker hidden in the green from the Bush War years before. There were vervet monkeys in the moss-covered trees and ferns covering the ground.
The humid and dense forest of the Eastern Highlands
We made it to the highest point for the day and had an amazing view as the clouds had lifted. Across the valley was a green ridge that was speckled with waterfalls that sparkled in the sunshine. As we walked along the top of the mountain, we passed cows grazing as their bells jingled with each step. Looking over the other side of the cliff, we could see the canals below that are used by the power plant. We kept walking towards the point where the Nyamuzi and Pungwe rivers converge and where we’d start to descend.
The view of the canal that feeds the power plant
Going to the top
Starting our way down to the river
We walked down slowly as the path had disappeared. Walter would stop every few steps and evaluate where to go. There were moments when we would backtrack and take a different route. We were working our way down the steep side of the mountain and used trees and plants as handles to make sure we didn’t slide down. It was challenging as there was a stream we needed to cross, but couldn’t go at it just anywhere as it had formed a small canyon over the years. We found the right spot and continued looking for the best path down.
Walter on the edge of the cliff looking for a way down
After a lot of zigzags, we reached the Nyamuzi River and stopped for lunch before carrying on. We reached the confluence and followed the Pungwe back towards camp. At times, we were next to the river and others we went into the woods to find a path. When we reached the edge of the national park, we ducked under a fence to enter someone’s property. The path continued through their farmland and back to the river.
Our lunch…Texan corned meat!
We reached the canal and spoke with the workers about the dam and how they use the water to create power. The rest of the walk was along the canal and we even cut a kilometer off the trek as a local farmer offered to let us jump in the bed of his truck. We made it to base camp and were happy to be able rest after a long 19 kilometers (almost 12 miles) of walking.
The Nyamuzi River dam
The dam workers taking a break
Enjoying a lollipop after a long day of hiking
Pungwe B to Pungwe C
The next day Walter and Robert came at 7 am to start our hike. Our legs were stiff from the walking the day before, but we’d planned to do a shorter walk that day. Walter carried a plastic bag with food, which should have tipped us off as to the length of our hike. The sky was clear blue so we looked forward to the views.
We crossed the river and immediately started working our way up the mountain. The path led through a banana farm and we passed donkeys and chickens as we walked. Before we knew it, we were back in the Nyanga National Park again. We continued up through the trees until there was an opening and we could see out across the mountains. On the other side of the valley stood the mountain that we climbed the previous day. We recognized the tree we stood next to as one we’d spotted in the distance the day before. The path continued up as we reached the highest point. It was time for a break before we walked on. Walter pointed to the rounded mountain in the distance and said that was where we were going.
Passing through the banana plantations
Tico looking back at the valley of our campsite
The round mountain in the middle was our destination
We got off the path and worked our way down the side of the mountain. There was stream after stream coming out of the ground and when we didn’t cross them, we used them to guide us down. Large trees had been cut down and Walter explained that poachers use the timber to make large spoons to sell in South Africa.
Our path along the small creeks
Walter with his bag of supplies
After 3 hours of walking, we told Walter that we wanted to find a way back to camp. Before leaving, we’d decided that 6 hours roundtrip would be a good length after the long hike the previous day. He reassured us that it would take an hour to get to Pungwe C and then there was shortcut that would get us home in 2.5 hours. We were skeptical, but there was no direct way down from where we stood.
Getting closer to the “rounded mountain”
A new path appeared and we followed it through another farmer’s property. Before we made our final descent, Walter signaled where the shortcut began. Tico drew a map in the dirt in an attempt to understand how far Pungwe C was as well as the distance to the combi and the shortcut. The measurements were 1 km, 2 km and 5 km, respectively.
Almost 2 hours since we’d been told it was 1 hour away, we reached our destination. We took a tour of the dam and then followed the road towards the tar road to catch the combi. The security guard at the dam told us it was 8 kms to the road, but Walter now said it was 5 kms as there was a shortcut. It was getting late and Walter started to worry about being able to catch a combi from Hauna to home. We picked up the pace and in an hour, after walking over 6 kms (4 miles), we met the tar road. The combi passed after a few short minutes and we piled into another van with 20+ people. The structure of this vehicle was on its last leg with ropes holding pieces of metal together, but at least it didn’t struggle mechanically.
Taking the power plant tour
Walking on the water pipelines for the power plant
The last section of our hike
We arrived at Hauna to find out the combi had just left, but it would be back shortly. That meant it was time for lunch and Tico used the time to take pictures of people and the market. After a bit, the combi arrived and we packed it full of people. Walter got off at the store in Buwu, but he asked the driver to take us all the way down. We picked up a worker along the way so we chatted with him as we walked the final 1 km to our camp. It was 6 pm and getting dark by the time we made it back. Just enough time to clean up, eat and crawl in after walking almost 18 kms (11 miles).
Maria and Walter waiting for the combi
Little kid waiting for the combi to fill up
A little store at the Hauna market
Our days spent in the Eastern Highlands offered us amazing views of the green mountains and introduced us to some great people. Walter didn’t break a sweat over those 2 days of hiking, while we felt the effects of the hikes. But it made the scenary that much more beautiful and helped us to appreciate the way of life in the area.
Helpful tips:
- If using public transport, get to Buwu village and walk the 2 kms down to Pungwe B.
- The Turaco Trail is a great option if you need help coordinating things, but there is a cost associated with it.
- The power station hiking trails are still being developed, but once completed, they will be a great option as all campsites will have tents and bathroom facilities.