Ilha de Mozambique

The trip from Nampula to Ilha took us 4 hours in a chapa even though it is less than 200 kms (124 miles) away.  Each time we set foot in one the experience is different.  The main road in Nampula had several chapas lined up while the headhunters ran around looking for passengers.  We decided on one that was basically empty, but it meant we could take the front seat.  So we claimed our space with our bags and spent the time people watching.  A market was nearby and there were people on the move while others were trying to sell anything they could to make some cash.  After over an hour, the chapa was full and we were ready to leave.

As we drove through town, we managed to pick up more people.  The only good comparison is a clown car.  Just when you think no one else can fit in, they rearrange seats and someone ends up staying with their back against the ceiling.  If the roof hadn’t been filled with bags and boxes, I think they would have tried to strap someone there.  We continued passing through villages and picking up more people than we’d left off.  Each stop had a local market with people selling fruits and vegetables.  There were arguments over the price and time spent paying off the police.

 

 

 

 

As that part of the adventure was coming to an end, we could see the ocean and Ilha not far ahead of us.  We got dropped off near Ruby’s, where we’d hoped to stay, and the headhunter even took us to the door.  We checked in and went to the rooftop terrace before heading out to explore.  Lunch was skipped as we’d been in the chapa so we were off to see the sunset and find food.

 

 

Mwaura as well as the guys from the chapa had recommended we go to Sara’s so we decided to try it.  It was delicious and not only because we hadn’t eaten a meal in hours.  I got the matapa de siri-siri, which was similar to seaweed curry with coconut rice, and Tico got fish fillets.  After a day of travel, we crawled in early so we could get up for the sunrise.

 

 

We opened the doors to our room to see the sky was already getting light.  The streets were mostly empty with the exception of people cleaning.  The island is a UNESCO site and it showed, if through nothing else by its cleanliness.  The rest of the country had its streets littered with pieces of trash, but here there was almost none in sight.  We walked towards the Eastern side of the island and saw that the sun had already risen, but a blanket of clouds covered it.

 

That didn’t keep us from wandering around.  We walked out on a shallow coral reef near the fort and saw many of the same things we see when scuba diving.  There were crabs, starfish, sea urchins and little fish in the small pools of water.  The ocean was full of fisherman boats.  Some were similar to a mokoro with just one person and others were dhows filled to the max with people.

 

 

 

Our tour continued from one side of the island to the other.  We passed a playground that was filled with children, which made us realize that this was the first we’d seen one since leaving South Africa.  The kids played hopscotch, teetered on the seesaw and ran around as they should.  From there, we visited the Memory Garden, which was where the slaves were gathered before being sold and distributed around the world.  There were 2 boys jumping off what used to be the loading dock and within minutes more appeared.  They ran around and jumped in the water over and over.  It was all fun and games until one cut his foot on a rock while getting out of the water.  Without a look of pain in his eyes, he cleaned it with fresh water and then rubbed it with sand to try to stop the bleeding.

 

 

 

 

 

As we passed the hospital, the scenery started to change.  Years before, this was the dividing line between the whites and blacks.  This meant there were fewer colonial houses and more made out of mud and reeds.   We stopped by the fish market to inspect their morning catch.  Each vendor was preparing their display with a variety of fish.  Most were sardines and octopus/squid although they also had angel fish, needle nose gar, and some that were brightly colored.  One of the fishermen explained how he free dives and uses a spear while most use nets.  Because of this, he gets larger and more exotic fish.

 

 

 

 

After lunch, the tour continued to the tip of the island.  We watched a soccer game for a bit and realized that their ball was actually a sack that was tied into a round shape with twine.  They had to kick with all their force to make it fly.  As we stood there, a boat approached the shore and a large group of people gathered.  They unloaded their catch and it quickly disappeared.  A pickup took a couple buckets of large lobsters and raced off towards Nacala while others carried the fish on string to sell around the island.  Before long the only fish left was the biggest.  It weighed 22 kgs (48.5 lbs.) and would take a bit more effort to sell.

 

 

As we left that side of the beach, a group of kids followed us.  They walked with us and fought over who got to hold our hands.  Some sang while others made jokes with the group.  We tried to say goodbye to them a couple times when we were ready to head back to the hostel, but were unsuccessful.  Our final attempt was to go into the disco to hide even though it was too early for it to be open.  While some of them tried to follow us in, they knew they weren’t allowed and quickly left.  Once we felt it had been long enough, we walked out and made our way back.  Some were still waiting for us, but they had gotten the hint and went back to their homes as well.

 

 

We’d spent time wandering around the island, but now it was time to learn more about the history.  So we went to the museum and the Fort of São Sebastião to hear about life when Portugal controlled the country.  The museum was initially a school that later became a guest house for diplomats and then the Governor’s house.  We were asked to take our shoes off for the tour to help with the preservation.  The house was decorated with items from around the world that had been brought over in the 17th century.

From the museum, we walked alongside the beach to the Northern tip of the island to reach the fort.  With our guide, we walked around learning about how they used each area.  The first building constructed in the fort was a chapel, which also happens to be the oldest building in the Southern Hemisphere.  There were 3 tanks used for rain collection that are still used today.  The cannons were still aimed and ready to be fired while some even had cannonballs inside.  Our guide explained where the soldiers spent their time as well as where the slaves were fed to be ‘bulked up’ so they would be offered a better price.  He showed us where the Mozambique soldiers lined up to kill those taken captive and explained how if they missed they were then placed in the line of fire of a Portuguese solider.  We stayed and wandered more after the tour to enjoy the view from the top.  The sun was nearing the horizon and the fort was closing so we went to the nearby beach to watch the sky change colors.

 

 

 

Our initial plan had been to only stay a few days on Ilha, but it turned into almost a week.  Even though the island isn’t that big, there’s so much to do.  From the nearby islands, to exploring the history and current way of life, there was plenty to keep us entertained.  It was also  nice to see a calmer slice of the country.

Helpful tips:

• Both the museum and fort entrance fees include guides.
• A meal at Sara’s Place (in front of the hospital) is a must.
• If you aren’t sure if Ilha is worth a visit, it definitely is.  There is something special about being there.