Floating down the Tsiribihina River

The morning started early as we would start down the river in a few hours.  Once everyone finished breakfast, we loaded back into the shuttle with our bags strapped to the roof and left the tar road towards the river.  We stopped in a village, Masiakampy, and had time to wander around before going the final kilometers to the boats.  Children ran alongside the bus as we left their hometown and were with us until we left. 

 

 

It took some time to load the boats with all of our things.  We had asked about our big packs and the answer was they would be our back support.  The mattresses we’d use for camping were also our seats and they had most of the food in a larger boat.  Smoke was already coming from the charcoal grill before we left.  Luva, our guide, asked how many bottles of water we had and the answer was none as we were told it was included.  While we waited for the water delivery, I played games with the little girls.

 

 

Day 1

Not long after, we were floating down the Mahajilo River.  We were the last boat to pull out and one in front had found a chameleon in the reeds.  The boatman was carrying the reptile on his oar so that each boat could see.  Once we’d all seen it, he put it back in the reeds and we continued on.  There were Madagascar kingfishers and bee-eater birds hidden on the edges as we were pushed along. 

 

 

We reached the Tsiribihina River and the shores got further away from us as this river was much wider.  Jean and Silvan, our rowers, would take us from side to side depending on the current and the depth.  Multiple times the calculation was a little off and we ended up stuck on a shallow and invisible sandbank. We’d try to rock ourselves off, but when that didn’t work they would get out and pull/push us off.

 

As it got hotter, we stopped for a break.  It also doubled as a toilet stop.  While we took care of business, the staff plated our meal and left them on our seats.  They had managed to prepare rice with curried ground beef and salad while working our way down the river.  We ate while we moved as we’d gotten a late start.  Shortly after, we saw a couple turtles sunning themselves on a rock.  Silvan then pointed in the distance and this time we understood his French.  There was a crocodile on a sandbank across the river.  We tried to get closer, but made too much noise and it inched its way back into the water.  They had told us there were crocs, but we didn’t actually think we’d see one.  

 

The land on both sides of the river turned to forest and we thought this was our moment to find lemurs.  We took turns passing around the binoculars, but spotted nothing.  Thanks to our rowers, they were able to find us our first common brown lemurs as they came down for a drink of water.  Our first impression was that they were somewhat cat-like as their tails were bushy.  We also thought that there were 2 different species, but we later learned that the males are grey while the females are brown. 

 

 

As we reached our campsite for the night, we continued to see more lemurs.  We’d point into the distance and they’d try to get the canoe as close as possible before they scurried away.  We pitched our tents next to the river and downstream of a waterfall.  Once we unloaded our things, we walked along the rocks towards the sound of running water.  There were a handful of lemurs in the stream that weren’t bothered by people getting close and taking their picture.  Sarah and Tico took advantage of the waterfall to rinse off as that’d be the closest thing to a shower we’d have for the coming days.  

 

 

Once the sun had set, the group gathered on a tarp in the sand.  They’d prepared a cocktail from pineapple juice and rum and we got to know one another.  While they cooked dinner, the camp guard brought over his guitar and Jean played drums on a plastic jug.  Before long, we were all on our feet dancing, singing and clapping to the rhythm.  At one point, we had a train going around the tarp and the boatmen were getting those who weren’t dancing up to join the fun.  

 

Dinner was served and we all sat down.  The conversations continued and then Luva told stories about the names of the towns we’d visited.  People in Madagascar are quite superstitious and there is a story for almost everything.  The stars were out in full force and after we admired them, we climbed into the tent.  Our 3-person tent was cozy and it’d be our home for the next several nights. 

 

Day 2

We set an alarm in hopes of seeing the waterfall as the sun broke through.  Because of its location that didn’t happen, but it was still a sight to see especially with the white floor and transparent water.  While we waited for breakfast, we wandered around the rocks and took in the calm waters.  They called us over and we sat around the tarp as we ate breakfast.  There was Pamela, which was their version of Nutella, and we were thrilled to have the luxury.

 

 

By 8:30 am we were loaded in the canoes and ready to make our way down the river.  We changed up the order in our boat and watched the scenery as Jean and Silvan paddled us along.  Over the length of the day, we each took a turn at taking a paddle and helping us down the river.  The water flowed in our favor and we chatted as we moved along.

 

 

After a short time in the canoes, we pulled over and got out.  We landed in the Begidro village and were given the time to walk around.  The path led us to their market and we wandered around.  We sampled the cassava and bought sugar cane for the ride.  It was then that we realized that this pit stop was actually to stock up on alcohol for the night.  Everyone pitched in and we bought several bottles of rum for the group.

 

 

 

The caravan of canoes carried on down the river until we found a shady spot along the shore.  We had time to relax and explore while our lunch was prepared.  As it was mostly farmland around us, we sat around the tarp chatting with the group.  Before long our lunch of spaghetti bolognese was served and it even came with a massive bowl of guacamole.  We’d already began to notice that no meal is complete without rice so another bowl of white rice was also set on the tarp.  The group did their best to make a dent in the food, but there were still plenty of leftovers.

 

 

Once back in the canoes, we started making our way towards that night’s campsite.  Our boat was the caboose so we watched as the others avoided the shallow parts and moved around the bends.  Our conversations with our paddlers were limited as they knew very little English and our French and Malagasy were worse.  Regardless, we’d get points across and learned a few words as we went.  Again, Silvan pointed and said crocodile and we all searched.  There was one basking in the sun on a sandbank in the middle of the river.  As we tried to get close, it again sunk into the water and disappeared.

 

Not long after, there was another croc on the shore and we communicated this to the rest of the group.  We tried to be quieter this time and inched our way forward.  While he was slower to get away, he still snuck into the water and to who knows where.  We passed families that had built huts along the shore and were truly in the middle of nowhere.  There were villages now and again and as it was getting later into the evening we passed the last community for the day.  There was a sandbank directly across from it and that would be our home for the night.

 

 

We set up camp while the crew worked on dinner.  They’d bought 3 chickens at the village that morning and they wouldn’t make it until the morning.  As we’ve eaten several chickens that we saw or heard alive just before, one of my goals for Africa was to be part of the process.  So I watched as they worked and realized that maybe it really wasn’t something I wanted to do.  Plucking the feathers is one thing, but the actual killing was a bit much.  But we’ve now seen it from start to finish and even watched as they chased a chicken in the sand that knew its life was coming to an end.

 

 

 

 

 

The sun set over the river and a fire was started near camp.  Our cocktail and snacks were served and then we ate dinner.  Some of the boys from the village came over and began playing their instruments next to the fire.  It soon turned into a dance party.  The trick was to try and move your legs as fast as possible.  There were circular trains and when we were all exhausted we tucked ourselves in under the stars.

 

 

 

Day 3

This would be our last day on the river and there wasn’t that much water to cover before our takeout point.  After we ate breakfast, we loaded up one last time and started down the river.  We stayed more in a group and raced with some and played with others by pushing them in the other direction.  As we went, the crew sang songs.  Most were repetitive so the group would join in on the chorus or parts we’d picked up.

 

We passed tall cliffs that had bats living in them and saw one last crocodile before we reached the shore.  There were people waiting for us and when they saw us coming they ran alongside to where we stopped.  We unloaded everything under a tree while we said goodbye to most of our crew.  The next part of the trip involved an hour-long ride in a cart drawn by an 2 oxen.  The road was a few kilometers away and even though we’d be getting in 4×4 vehicles they couldn’t come to us.

 

 

 

Our bags were put into a cart and we’d again use them as cushion.  It was a tight squeeze, but the 3 of us managed to get in one cart.  We actually had to switch carts as we needed stronger oxen with so many people.  We followed suit of those in front of us and were off. Our driver pinched the tail of the ox to get him going and as this wasn’t their first time down the path they knew where to go.  We went through sections of water and passed people walking into the village.  Poop would occasionally come flying in our direction, but we were having too good of a time to care.

 

 

We had to cross a stream at one point that involved a fairly steep incline to get back up on the path.  Getting across the water was easy, but the exit proved to be a problem.  We tried once and were unsuccessful as the ox on the right tried to go too wide. On the second attempt, the same thing happened.   We hopped out of the cart to see if less weight would help, but still nothing.  So the driver switched the positions of the oxen and they went up with ease.

 

 

We reached the rest of the group and the 4x4s and everyone was distributed between the 3 cars.  The caravan moved along the dirt road and the only stops we made were because the Jeep in our group had issues.  It broke twice, but they managed to fix it.  The road led us to the edge of the same river we were on hours before. There was a catamaran ferry that was like nothing we’d seen before.  There were wooden boards that were covering the boat, which was actually two boats tied together.  Everyone sat along the edges while the boat banged along with its loud engine.

 

 

 

 

We unloaded on the outskirts of Belo sur Tsiribihina, which would be our home for the night.  Once we were all divided into our rooms, the 3 of us opted for a dinner on our own.  We walked along the main road until we found a hotely that we liked.  This time it was a verbal menu and we selected what we wanted.  They brought out the plates so fast that we couldn’t change an order once we realized what we were actually getting.  But we were able to order 3 cold beers so it all turned out okay in the end.  On the way back to the Karibo Hotel, we passed the rest of the group.  We stopped for another beer and some porch dancing before it was time to crawl in.

Helpful tips:

• Take the time to wander around the different villages to see their markets and the locals.
• The sun is harsh on the river, make sure you have clothes or lots of sunscreen to protect you.