Hiking Mount Kilimanjaro

We had been researching for months about which route to take and the prices of different companies.  The decision was to do the Northern Circuit, but we were going to arrive in Moshi and finalize a company.  We had 2 options in case we didn’t find anything promising, but we assumed it would be like the rest of Africa where people would approach us and offer a deal. 

We got off the bus in Moshi from Arusha and started walking towards a hotel we had in mind.  One man followed us and told us about his company.  We tried to tell him that we weren’t discussing anything until we dropped our packs so he escorted us to a hotel.  Once we were checked in he invited us to his office, but we wanted to eat lunch first.  By the time we were done eating there was a new man, Gladstone, sitting outside the hotel waiting for us.  He approached us and asked what our plan was.  We ended up following him into a souvenir shop, where he pulled out a map and we discussed our plan. 

He gave us a quote for the route we wanted, which was $200 lower than anything we’d seen online.  We discussed renting clothes and he took us to a nearby shop.  Once we had picked out the things we needed, he adjusted our quote to include the gear.  We talked it over and asked to meet the guide as we wanted to make sure we got along.  Justice showed up and after several questions we shook hands.  They didn’t accept credit cards so we went to the bank and pulled out half of the money.  We’d have a briefing at 6 pm and then leave the next morning.  

We wandered around the town and Tico took the opportunity to have his hiking shoes sown yet again.  Then, it was time to head back for our briefing.  We sat outside of the hotel at 6 pm and for 15 minutes no one showed up.  Tico walked to the souvenir shop and they called Sam, Gladstone’s partner.  As Tico walked back, Gladstone pulled up and approached us.  There was alcohol on his breath and he wasn’t able to truly communicate what was going on.  Sam showed up with a porter and tried to mend things, but we eventually had to walk to a nearby restaurant to get away from Gladstone. 

During this whole ordeal, we’re asking where Justice is.  Sam called him multiple times and 40 minutes later he showed up.  He also had alcohol on his breath, but tried to give us the briefing.  We were done and told Sam that was it.  There were 2 options, cancel everything and get a refund or meet at 7 am and try again.  While we were really uncertain, we agreed to the latter.  I tried to pull out more money only to find out my card had been blocked.  My mother came to the rescue and cleared things up while we ate dinner.  

It was hard to sleep with all the questions running through our minds as this wasn’t just another hike.  We wanted to make sure the guide was responsible as we were headed into high altitude and our lives could literally be in danger.  So we walked out of the hotel at 7 am the next morning to find Sam and the porter already there.  We asked if they had any other guides and if it meant leaving a day later that was fine.  As they’d already done the shopping, they set out on a mission to find another guide.

We started packing and reconvened at 8 am.  The assistant guide we’d met the day before would be our new chief guide.  The next 2 hours were spent running around making sure everything was set.  I went to get more money while Tico showered and went back to the rental shop to get our warm clothes.  The ATM declined me yet again so it was back to the hotel to make a phone call.  I called my bank and while on hold I managed to get in a shower as well.  I went back to the bank and finished our payment and Tico went back yet again for things that had been left behind.  By 10 am, we were in the car and ready to leave. 

We drove to pick up more members of our crew and Justice tried to get in the car.  Tico got out and told him he wasn’t coming with us and the phone calls started to find someone else.  As we drove to the national park gate, we continued to get a couple more people who would help us reach the summit.  After 2.5 hours and leaving the tar road behind us, we drove through the forest and to Londorosi Gate.  

Day 1

We reached the Kilimanjaro National Park entrance and ate lunch while the team distributed what we’d take up the mountain.  The rules about the weight that the porters can carry is taken very serious.  One-by-one they put their bag on a scale and things were redistributed as needed.  We paid the park fees and then drove 40 minutes to the Lemosho Gate.

 

 

 

Our starting elevation was 2100 meters (6890 feet) and over the next 6 days we’d slowly make our way to the peak.  The porters had their bags reweighed, food inventory was taken and we were off.  Over the next 2 hours, we hiked through a rainforest to Mti Mkubwa camp.  There were black and white colobus monkeys jumping between trees and an oversized blue monkey that came out on the path behind us to show how used to people he was.  We also spotted a lone impala in the bush just before we reached the camp.  

 

 

 

By the time we reached camp (2650 m; 8694 ft), the tents were set up and we had time to wander around.  The campsite was teeming with tents as each group had at least 10 crew members and most had more.  They gave us tea and popcorn in our tent before dinner was served.  After a day of craziness and poor sleep from the night before, we had no problem getting a glimpse of the starry night and calling it a night.  

 

 

 

Day 2

We woke up to birds chirping and blue monkeys jumping from the trees.  The latter were trying to get close enough to grab a bite to eat.  It had dropped to 7°C ( 45°F), but we knew it was only going to get colder.  We had breakfast and once everything was packed up, we went out into the rainforest. 

 

For the first hour we were surrounded by the trees and caught glimpses of a few more colobus monkeys hanging around.  Godfrey told us the forest was about to end and then a few steps later we were surrounded by protea plants.  The landscape changed to a moorland and there were short bushes all around us.  We stopped for a snack after climbing up so we had a view out over the green hills.  Although we didn’t realize it at the time, the clouds were coming and we appreciated being able to see out.  As we continued to go up, we literally entered the clouds.  They blew around us and worked their way to the top. 

 

The path turned left and the clouds stayed behind.  The view opened up again and we passed 3 porters on their way down.  Their clients had to be taken off the mountain so they were headed back to the gate.  We then went downhill to Shira I camp (3610 m; 11,844 ft).  There were several tents already set up and we found ours on the far end.  We registered, ate lunch and had the afternoon to relax.  Both of us had slight headaches, but we were told it was normal.  

 

 

 

 

A dust tornado formed on the other side of the camp and we watched as it got bigger and blew through the middle of camp.  It picked up dirt and trash and sent people running away.  Not long after, the clouds came in and we were covered yet again.  Just after sunset, the clouds cleared and we finally saw the peak.  It was speckled with snow and glaciers.  The only other time we’d seen it, we were in a plane and high above the clouds.  It was getting colder and was 3°C (37°F) by the time we crawled into bed.  After 7 kms (4.3 miles) over 4.5 hours, we were ready to get some rest.  

 

 

 

Day 3

We woke up for sunrise and we were above the clouds.  It was a crazy feeling to look out and see the clouds beneath you instead of above.  There was frost on the ground and we were bundled in all the warm clothes we’d rented.  After breakfast, we left camp behind and were en route to Moir camp.  We asked Godfrey were the glaciers began when he started working on the mountain 18 years ago and he said they reached to almost where we camped the night before.  

 

The path led us across a road and just before we reached it an ambulance came racing down.  It made us realize how real our situation was and also happy that we’d opted for the longer trail to help us acclimatize.  We left the moorland and entered an area with bushes and moss.  As we continued on, the landscape changed yet again to be more desert like.  The clouds came in and brought some mist with them.  It was short-lived, but meant we waited to have our snack until we reached a cave. 

 

 

 

Our home for the night was at 4200 m (13,780 ft) and only had 3 other groups present.  Although we’d walked 3 hr 40 mins for 10 kms (6.2 miles) , it didn’t seem that long.  After lunch, we wandered around the crater and found the helicopter pad in case of emergencies.  As it was even colder, we spent most of the time in the tent.  The clouds stayed with us until we were eating dinner.  Godfrey called us out and we could see the peak for a second before another cloud came in.  By the time we went to bed, the clouds were gone and the sky was full of stars.

 

 

 

 

Day 4

It had been a cold night and we both slept with every piece of clothing we had with us.  When we woke up, it was 1°C (34°F) inside the tent and -4°C (25°F) outside.  The clouds were below us and once we’d eaten we took a path different from everyone else in our camp.  They were following the Lemosho route, which would take them along the southern section while we’d loop around the northern side of the mountain before our final approach. 

 

 

We walked out of the crater and up through the desert.  There wasn’t any vegetation and we stepped on rocks that chimed as we walked over them.  It looked as if someone had broken millions of plates and we used them to guide us.  We stopped for a snack when we reached the highest point we’d been to so far.  From there, it was downhill to camp.  We reentered an area with vegetation and found ourselves in fields of everlast flowers and cacti. 

 

 

No matter where we looked out into the horizon, there was a sheet of clouds.  We admired the formations since it was so different to see them below us.  There appeared to be a canyon as well as mountains with several peaks.  As we walked, we saw hoof prints of zebra and buffalo.  We’d been told that years before there were many more animals, but now most of them stayed below where there were less humans.  The path took us up and down and it seemed much longer than previous days.  

 

 

 

We could see our tents in the distance.  Over 4 hrs 40 mins we walked 10 kms (6.2 miles) to Buffalo Camp (4020 m; 13,189 ft).  We were the only ones there and as there were no facilities it felt like we’d pitched our tents in the middle of nowhere.  The afternoon was spent wandering around and enjoying the fact that the peak was making itself known without being surrounded by clouds.  That also meant that once the sun disappeared the stars came out in full force.  

 

 

 

 

Day 5

It was warmer than it’d been in a couple nights so we both slept much better.  Regardless, when we woke up, it was 3°C (35°F) and 0°C (32°F) outside.  Because of our position, we had a great spot to watch the sunrise.  We covered ourselves with everything and found a seat on the nearby rocks.  The sun rose above the clouds, but before the sky turned blue and orange.  We had the sensation that we were flying being up above the clouds.  

 

The path led us through fields of flowers and through dry river beds.  It was up and down, but mostly downhill.  We maneuvered around rock formations and after just 2 hours we reached Third Cave camp (3800 m; 12,467 ft).  There was one other group, but we were separated from them.  It again felt like we were secluded.  

 

 

 

As we’d only walked 6 kms (3.7 miles) and it wasn’t even lunch time, we found a path to what appeared like a cliff that dropped off into the clouds.  Once we reached it, we realized that the path continued down.  That didn’t stop us from sitting and watching as the clouds came in.  The peak disappeared and not long after it looked like the clouds would soon cover us.  

 

After lunch, we went to the tent to relax.  We had hoped to go for a walk in the afternoon, but the clouds kept coming in and with them came rain.  It was on and off and thankfully never a downpour, but it lasted about an hour.  As it had done the other days, as it neared sunset the weather started to clear.  We climbed out of the tent and walked up towards the path we’d use the next day.  The clouds moved enough to show a glimpse of the peak before more came to hide it.

 

We had dinner outside as there wasn’t wind and it wasn’t too cold (5°C, 41°F).  Then, we crawled in for bed as tomorrow was the big day.  We went to bed for the first time without seeing the stars, but we’d see them the following night as we started to climb.  

 

 

The hiking had been fairly easy up to this point.  Godfrey made sure we moved slowly and we stopped frequently to take in our surroundings.  We knew that the real challenge was still ahead of us, but as we got closer we got more and more excited.